Dairy's newest cash cow is enhanced cheese, and consumers across the country who are eating it up simply refer to it as cheese with good stuff inside. But no matter what you call it, these cheeses infused with fruit, vegetables, condiments and herbs -- from pastry-enrobed baked brie with cranberries and spiced almonds, to spreads flavored with spinach and water chestnuts -- are moving growth in the category.
At Zingerman's Delicatessen, Ann Arbor, Mich., considered by many to be one of the leading cheese retailers in the country, retail manager Matt Morgan singles out, among its adorned offerings, a Corsican, ewe's milk cheese rolled in rosemary, juniper berries and chilies; a garlic and cracked black peppercorn Gaperon; and a triple-creme French cheese-encrusted with brandy-soaked raisins, which was "quite popular" during the Christmas holidays.
At Larry's Markets, Bellevue, Wash., cheese specialist Connie Orona describes eye-appealing cheese tortas, lemon Stiltons, split bries spread with pesto and garnish, and the St. Andre triple creme that her in-store staff layers with salmon and dill and cuts into wedges. And there's no limit in sight.
"Just when I think I've seen everything, there's Van Goght," said Orona, referring to a California-produced goat cheese decorated with real flowers.
Why would cheese -- so good on its own -- need extras?
Donna Berry, dairy consultant and owner of Chicago-based Dairy & Food Communications, attributes revenue increases for enhanced or value-added items to convenience.
"Fewer consumers these days spend time in the kitchen, so whatever manufacturers can add in the way of creativity is welcome," she said. Berry also noted that, in contrast with the previous decade's preference for no- or low-fat foods, consumers today are increasingly pursuing full-fat products. With fat no longer an obstacle to product selection, cheese producers have resumed their mission to give consumers new flavors and tastes through innovation and added ingredients, she said.
Indeed, this cheese phenomenon has come a long way since bagel shops started creating gourmet cream-cheese spreads. Another key reason for its growing popularity seems to be consumers' self-indulgence, retailers said.
"People can't stop themselves," said Orona, who supervises the five-store chain's custom-cheese kiosks where service cases measure as long as 16 feet. "Consumers want to indulge. They feel like living a bit more, and doing extra special things for their guests and themselves." Morgan agrees.
"With the increase in the standard of living, many people are exploring food as entertainment and as a quality-of-life expression," he said.
To satisfy customers' desire for something new and adventuresome, Morgan starts with "cheeses that are familiar, but interesting," such as "cream cheese with apricot or a cheddar with onion or peppercorns," with the belief that they'll try a variation of something they already know. According to Morgan, edging into value-added cheese consumption in this manner effects a better appreciation of fine cheese on the part of the consumer in the long run.
Morgan believes that traditional cheeses are the most appealing basis for such innovation because they've stood the test of time.
"The first thing we look for is the underlying quality of the product," he said. "We often find that seasonings and herbs adorn a fundamentally mediocre cheese product."
Morgan also noted it's important to combine elements for textural appeal and to be aware that a strongly flavored cheese will generally overwhelm the impact of its seasonings. That's why Zingerman's prepares certain value-added cheese product in-store, such as American goat cheese rolled in herbs, and a summer mozzarella salad with tomato, basil and balsamic vinegar.
For Larry's Orona, many customers see enhanced cheese as a way to evoke good memories. People who have been on vacation in countries like England, France and Italy like those cheeses "with herbs scattered on them," she said. "It's romantic. Those cheeses allow customers to continue to live that vacation."
And for customers ready to let their tastes buds travel, Orona is eager to provide free tastings. The flavor appeal is right up there with convenience, she said.
"We want customers to taste before buying," Orona explained, adding her staff conducts spontaneous sampling two or three times a day. "When it's in their mouth, it's in their shopping basket. That's my best bet they'll buy it again."
Despite cheese's growing sales -- Orona says the category has "progressively grown" in the last four years -- experts say the trend might best be seen as a means to an end, rather than the end itself.
"Value-added will become an addition to, not a replacement for, a consumer's cheese list," Orona said.
