THE DRIVE TO INDIANOLA, MISS., PASSES COTTON FIELDS, catfish farms and a host of small towns that time seems to have forgotten. This is the Delta, birthplace of the blues and a region rich in tradition. It's also one of the most unhealthy and economically depressed parts of the country. Here, fast-food restaurants reign supreme, and recipes often call for deep frying and lots of butter.
Most food retailers wouldn't even think of promoting healthful eating in the Mississippi Delta. But